Rab Vapour Rise Lite
12.0 oz. (341g)
This is another one of those pieces that I just always seem to reach for. It is a softshell in it's purest form, though the hooded version (Vapour Rise Lite Tour) would top my list if I did it over. It is very similar in function to the venerable Marmot DriClimb, but with a better shell fabric in my opinion. The liner is Polartec Powerdry; a finely woven, soft material well suited to moving moisture mechanically. The outer fabric (Pertex Equilibrium) makes this jacket in my opinion. It is very wind resistant, dries incredibly fast, and moves moisture mechanically due to capillary action. The inner face of the fabric is of larger diameter and looser weave than the outer face; moisture is naturally drawn outward along a mechanical gradient. If you keep your DWR up to snuff it will be a moisture gradient too.
There are two huge outer pockets and a hem drawcord. There is a drawcord around the neck that I could do without on a hoodless jacket. The velcro on the cuffs is a little more cumbersome than necessary, though not a problem.
This jacket is a perfect midlayer in frigid conditions or active outer layer in cool/cold weather. Even when damp I never feel uncomfortably wet in this jacket. Since I know I can rely on it to dry quickly, it is with me on most spring hunts and summer hiking trips. The sleeves are cut too short for climbing, so it's not an option for that purpose for me.
The shelled micropile is a softshell in it's purest form. Andy Kirkpatrick has a great article about the softshell revolution and how most manufacturers are way off the mark when it comes to their proper function. You can find it here: "The Real Softshell Story" The Vapour Rise and Vapour Rise Lite line exemplify the right mix of breathability, comfort, and weather protection.
The Good:
-Very breathable and dries quickly
-Weather resistant
-Large pockets
-Comfortable enough to sleep in
The Bad:
-The cuffs aren't my favorite and the neck drawcord is extraneous in my opinion
The Bottom Line: The Rab Vapour Rise line is excellent. Rab build quality is good (not great) but the fabrics and design are worth it. Not that expensive either. 9.5/10
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Stretch Woven Softshell Synopsis
This is a brief synopsis of some of the stretch woven softshell (as opposed to shelled micropile and windshirts) materials that I've used. It's obnoxious to wade through all the manufacturer hype on softshell materials. They'd have you believe that every fabric is the best thing you've ever tried for every situation. I'll put together more on other softshell varieties as time allows.
Stretch-Woven's
(approximately from lightest to heaviest)
Schoeller Dynamic: About the stretchiest you can get (but will pill/fuzz up for that reason), very breathable, fairly durable, blocks little wind (less than Polartec Wind Pro, more than regular 100 wt. fleece), dries very fast. Example: REI Mistral
Toray Primeflex: Light, tougher than Dynamic, fairly stretchy. This is the material that Cloudveil used in their Inertia Peak line. It will be used in Kuiu's mountain pant as well.
Schoeller Dryskin: Stretchy, somewhat prone to fuzzing, very breathable, durable, a little more wind/weather resistant than Dynamic, dries very fast. It has a nice interior nap that really helps with moisture transport.
Schoeller Dryskin Extreme: Same as regular Dryskin but with Cordura woven in for durability. My favorite all around stretch woven softshell. Example: Mammut Champ Pant or New Age jacket
Outdoor Research Proprietary--Exos: Very simialr to Dryskin Extreme. Cordura weave. I was told that I had a pair from a mis-woven batch. They fuzzed up relatively quickly. Good performance though, and I would buy again.
Patagonia Guide fabric: No wind blocking membrane, but pretty wind resistant. Very resistant to pilling/fuzzing thanks to a tight outer weave, moderate stretch, moderate drying times. Good breathability and moisture management. Can tear under the wrong conditions (crampons anyone?), which is less than ideal. Good all-arounder.
Polartec Powershield: Stretch-woven outer, light fuzzy inner, and a perforated PU layer sandwiched in the middle. Very tough, a little heavier, less breathable than non-membrane softshells, but good for cool/cold weather; blocks wind well. Any softshell with a windblocking membrane is going to be less breathable and stretchy than otherwise.
Schoeller WB-400: Similar to Polartec Powershield. Stretch woven outer, light fuzzy inner, all bonded together with a windproof membrane in between. Heavier, durable, and nearly windproof. More breathable than most hardshells, but less than other stretch-wovens. Not breathable enough to be a good active layer in my opinion, other than very cold conditions where the temp. gradient from inside to outside of the fabric helps to push moisture.
Schoeller WB Formula: Similar to WB-400, but the membrane is on the outside, and it's waterproof/"breathable". Not really a true softshell. Too heavy and not breathable enough for extremely active use. Makes a good ski jacket in my opinion
Stretch-Woven's
(approximately from lightest to heaviest)
Schoeller Dynamic: About the stretchiest you can get (but will pill/fuzz up for that reason), very breathable, fairly durable, blocks little wind (less than Polartec Wind Pro, more than regular 100 wt. fleece), dries very fast. Example: REI Mistral
Toray Primeflex: Light, tougher than Dynamic, fairly stretchy. This is the material that Cloudveil used in their Inertia Peak line. It will be used in Kuiu's mountain pant as well.
Schoeller Dryskin: Stretchy, somewhat prone to fuzzing, very breathable, durable, a little more wind/weather resistant than Dynamic, dries very fast. It has a nice interior nap that really helps with moisture transport.
Schoeller Dryskin Extreme: Same as regular Dryskin but with Cordura woven in for durability. My favorite all around stretch woven softshell. Example: Mammut Champ Pant or New Age jacket
Outdoor Research Proprietary--Exos: Very simialr to Dryskin Extreme. Cordura weave. I was told that I had a pair from a mis-woven batch. They fuzzed up relatively quickly. Good performance though, and I would buy again.
Patagonia Guide fabric: No wind blocking membrane, but pretty wind resistant. Very resistant to pilling/fuzzing thanks to a tight outer weave, moderate stretch, moderate drying times. Good breathability and moisture management. Can tear under the wrong conditions (crampons anyone?), which is less than ideal. Good all-arounder.
Polartec Powershield: Stretch-woven outer, light fuzzy inner, and a perforated PU layer sandwiched in the middle. Very tough, a little heavier, less breathable than non-membrane softshells, but good for cool/cold weather; blocks wind well. Any softshell with a windblocking membrane is going to be less breathable and stretchy than otherwise.
Schoeller WB-400: Similar to Polartec Powershield. Stretch woven outer, light fuzzy inner, all bonded together with a windproof membrane in between. Heavier, durable, and nearly windproof. More breathable than most hardshells, but less than other stretch-wovens. Not breathable enough to be a good active layer in my opinion, other than very cold conditions where the temp. gradient from inside to outside of the fabric helps to push moisture.
Schoeller WB Formula: Similar to WB-400, but the membrane is on the outside, and it's waterproof/"breathable". Not really a true softshell. Too heavy and not breathable enough for extremely active use. Makes a good ski jacket in my opinion
Monday, March 14, 2011
NW Alpine Black Spider Light and Fast/Light Pant
NW Alpine is a small company operated in Portland, OR; their stuff is very climbing focused and just plain functional mountain gear. Everything is made in small batches, by hand, in Portland. They keep costs low and have solid customer service. This ice season I've been climbing in both the Fast/Light pant and Black Spider Light Hoody.
Fast/Light pant: Slim cut, athletic design--very nice for the movements associated with climbing ice. The fit is reminiscent of the Mammut Champ, but with a lower rise. Some people won't like the low rise, but it works for me. Not going to work if you're built square with extra butt. The fabric is great, particularly for cool-cold weather. It is a proprietary stretch woven; reminds me of Schoeller Dyanmic but with a harder face weave that should hold up well. More wind resistant too. I climbed comfortably with nothing but wool boxers underneath on a sub-zero ice day this winter. An inner nap (a la Dryskin Extreme) would be nice for warmer days, but this is an alpine pant and they breathe very well, so not really essential. Stitching and workmanship are excellent (imagine ID, but NW Alp. is better at sewing in a straight line). Good DWR and grommets for shock cord and skipping the gaiters.
So far: 9.5/10
Kept me good to go on a few snowy days out:
Black Spider Light Hoody: Earlier this year NW Alpine came out with a top called the Black Spider, similar to the R1 Hoody but with better workmanship and for about half the price. They sold out fast, but they put together a lighter weight version that is better suited to me personally. I find the R1 weight to be a little warm for my taste unless it's far below 0. This is an awesome mid-layer: versatile, breathable, and comfortable. The fit is slim on this piece as well, so if you think you might want to size up, you probably do. Cannot be beat for the price
So Far: 10/10
Photo: NW Alpine
NW Alpine makes everything in small batches so availability is pretty limited. They are always working on new runs and new gear, so I try to pay attention to their blog for what's going on. For the record I have no personal ties with them--if it wasn't good stuff I'd have no reason to tell you it was. Give them a call or e-mail with questions or feedback.
Fast/Light pant: Slim cut, athletic design--very nice for the movements associated with climbing ice. The fit is reminiscent of the Mammut Champ, but with a lower rise. Some people won't like the low rise, but it works for me. Not going to work if you're built square with extra butt. The fabric is great, particularly for cool-cold weather. It is a proprietary stretch woven; reminds me of Schoeller Dyanmic but with a harder face weave that should hold up well. More wind resistant too. I climbed comfortably with nothing but wool boxers underneath on a sub-zero ice day this winter. An inner nap (a la Dryskin Extreme) would be nice for warmer days, but this is an alpine pant and they breathe very well, so not really essential. Stitching and workmanship are excellent (imagine ID, but NW Alp. is better at sewing in a straight line). Good DWR and grommets for shock cord and skipping the gaiters.
So far: 9.5/10
Kept me good to go on a few snowy days out:
Black Spider Light Hoody: Earlier this year NW Alpine came out with a top called the Black Spider, similar to the R1 Hoody but with better workmanship and for about half the price. They sold out fast, but they put together a lighter weight version that is better suited to me personally. I find the R1 weight to be a little warm for my taste unless it's far below 0. This is an awesome mid-layer: versatile, breathable, and comfortable. The fit is slim on this piece as well, so if you think you might want to size up, you probably do. Cannot be beat for the price
So Far: 10/10
NW Alpine makes everything in small batches so availability is pretty limited. They are always working on new runs and new gear, so I try to pay attention to their blog for what's going on. For the record I have no personal ties with them--if it wasn't good stuff I'd have no reason to tell you it was. Give them a call or e-mail with questions or feedback.
Rab Latok Gloves
Rab Latok Glove
5.3 oz. (149g)
The Rab Latok is a great climbing glove and a very good hunting glove. It's as dexterous as any other well-insulated glove, and in a world where it has to be far below zero before I can put up with a mitt, it fits my needs nicely. It has a fairly short gauntlet, but will seal over cuffs. The palms are a sort of suede with a sticky rubber (stickier than the Rab Phantom Grip) that is nice for binos, stocks, ice tools, etc. in cold weather. Since it is fairly soft, the rubber will wear before anything else, but they are still very serviceable without it. The back is a light, proprietary stretch woven softshell material.
One thing that sets these gloves apart is the eVent membrane. In typical insulated gloves, moisture accumulates so fast (even in cold conditions) that its easy to wet out the insulation--and they take forever to dry. eVent moves your sweat faster than any other waterproof/breathable under any moisture regime; this is not true of Gore-tex in any conformation or nearly any other membrane on the market.
In a perfect world I would never shoot in these gloves. They are certainly the bulkiest handwear I'd consider doing so in, but it can be done.
It's worth noting that the newer version of these have a completely black palm, no pink at all.
The Good:
-Dexterous for the amount of insulation
-Good wicking liner
-Sticky palms
-Gauntlet not overdone
-eVent
The Bad:
-Rab build quality is good but not great
The bottom line: For cold weather use in snowy or slushy conditions I reach for these every time. While not perfect, I've yet to find a glove this warm, dexterous, and breathable in one package. 9/10
5.3 oz. (149g)
The Rab Latok is a great climbing glove and a very good hunting glove. It's as dexterous as any other well-insulated glove, and in a world where it has to be far below zero before I can put up with a mitt, it fits my needs nicely. It has a fairly short gauntlet, but will seal over cuffs. The palms are a sort of suede with a sticky rubber (stickier than the Rab Phantom Grip) that is nice for binos, stocks, ice tools, etc. in cold weather. Since it is fairly soft, the rubber will wear before anything else, but they are still very serviceable without it. The back is a light, proprietary stretch woven softshell material.
One thing that sets these gloves apart is the eVent membrane. In typical insulated gloves, moisture accumulates so fast (even in cold conditions) that its easy to wet out the insulation--and they take forever to dry. eVent moves your sweat faster than any other waterproof/breathable under any moisture regime; this is not true of Gore-tex in any conformation or nearly any other membrane on the market.
In a perfect world I would never shoot in these gloves. They are certainly the bulkiest handwear I'd consider doing so in, but it can be done.
It's worth noting that the newer version of these have a completely black palm, no pink at all.
The Good:
-Dexterous for the amount of insulation
-Good wicking liner
-Sticky palms
-Gauntlet not overdone
-eVent
The Bad:
-Rab build quality is good but not great
The bottom line: For cold weather use in snowy or slushy conditions I reach for these every time. While not perfect, I've yet to find a glove this warm, dexterous, and breathable in one package. 9/10
Friday, March 11, 2011
Rab Phantom Grip Gloves
The Rab Phantom Grip gloves are the only pair of gloves that I use extensively in all four season. They are light (2.0 oz./pair), comfortable, and fit my hand just right. Aside from the cut, which may or may not work for you, the fabric makes these tick. In my opinion, Polartec Windpro is one of the most underrated fabrics for active mid layers, hats, and gloves. It blocks wind fairly well, but breathes and dries out WAY better than anything with a windproof membrane. The palms are covered with a rubber grid for grip--unfortunately in cold weather the rubber stiffens up a fair amount and doesn't provide the consistent performance of leather palms. Not a huge deal for hunting, but for climbing it can be a problem.
The trade-off is that you get amazing dexterity and very good performance in cool weather. The fabric weave has a hard enough face to shed light, cold snow. The is one of the only gloves that I am very comfortable shooting in. Above about 10* these are my go to glove for leading ice. I carry two pairs and keep one next to my torso to dry out/stay warm.
Unfortunately, Rab's build quality has really gone downhill with many of their products. They are still on par with Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, etc., but are no longer near the top of the game in terms of workmanship. That said, they make decent stuff at relatively reasonable prices and have a broad, well-thought out line.
The Good:
-Light
-Breathe well and dry fast
-Very dextrous
-Shed light weather
The Bad:
-Lose some "stickiness" in the cold. Some decrease is to be expected, but I think they should have used softer rubber
-Build quality is OK. I blew a seam on one pair after a couple of months.
Bottom Line: Great glove for hunting and active use. Could be more durable. The dexterity is awesome and worth the costs to me. 7.5/10
The trade-off is that you get amazing dexterity and very good performance in cool weather. The fabric weave has a hard enough face to shed light, cold snow. The is one of the only gloves that I am very comfortable shooting in. Above about 10* these are my go to glove for leading ice. I carry two pairs and keep one next to my torso to dry out/stay warm.
Unfortunately, Rab's build quality has really gone downhill with many of their products. They are still on par with Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, etc., but are no longer near the top of the game in terms of workmanship. That said, they make decent stuff at relatively reasonable prices and have a broad, well-thought out line.
The Good:
-Light
-Breathe well and dry fast
-Very dextrous
-Shed light weather
The Bad:
-Lose some "stickiness" in the cold. Some decrease is to be expected, but I think they should have used softer rubber
-Build quality is OK. I blew a seam on one pair after a couple of months.
Bottom Line: Great glove for hunting and active use. Could be more durable. The dexterity is awesome and worth the costs to me. 7.5/10
Hilleberg Nallo 2 GT and Big Agnes String Ridge 2
Here is a link to a review I did a couple of years ago on Rick's site. It compares the Hilleberg Nallo 2 GT and Big Agnes String Ridge 2. Lots of pictures and it was about as thorough as I care to be.
Hilleberg Nallo 2 GT and Big Agnes String Ridge
I'm a big fan of Hilleberg shelters and you'll see more of them on here in the future.
Hilleberg Nallo 2 GT and Big Agnes String Ridge
I'm a big fan of Hilleberg shelters and you'll see more of them on here in the future.
Integral Designs Hot Socks
The ID Hot Socks are basically like a Primalid for your feet. My pair weighs 4.7 ounces and are good medicine for somebody who gets cold feet easily. The bulk of the fabric is Pertex P565, which has a soft feel but is fairly tough (ripstop weave, etc.). The top band and back are the same stretchy fleece that's on the Primalid. The bottoms are 500d Cordura and can handle tent or hut time and the occasional walk to relieve yourself in the night. The fill is 4 oz. Primaloft Sport; a little thicker than the Primalid.
Some down booties have a slightly stiffened sole, these do not. This makes them a much better choice for use inside of a sleeping bag. After a few days out, one of the first places that your bag loses loft is in the foot (particularly in tight quarters). Hot socks help balance the loss and add a lot of comfort for the weight. I do, however, generally consider them a luxury item.
If bringing them, I pack these inside of my sleeping bag and put them on at night after drying my feet and removing wet socks. If I have spare socks along, a dry pair coupled with the hot socks is tough to beat. They also make decent puppets if you have small children along.
The Good:
-Very comfortable
-Good workmanship and materials
-Decent warmth:weight ratio
The Bad:
-None to date
Bottom Line: Simple, functional, and warm. Fairly light. Not for every trip or person, but if you can spare a few ounces they make tent life a little more enjoyable. If you plan to stand around in them much, cut some "insoles" out of 1/4" Evazote and drop them in for a little more insulation. 10/10
Some down booties have a slightly stiffened sole, these do not. This makes them a much better choice for use inside of a sleeping bag. After a few days out, one of the first places that your bag loses loft is in the foot (particularly in tight quarters). Hot socks help balance the loss and add a lot of comfort for the weight. I do, however, generally consider them a luxury item.
If bringing them, I pack these inside of my sleeping bag and put them on at night after drying my feet and removing wet socks. If I have spare socks along, a dry pair coupled with the hot socks is tough to beat. They also make decent puppets if you have small children along.
The Good:
-Very comfortable
-Good workmanship and materials
-Decent warmth:weight ratio
The Bad:
-None to date
Bottom Line: Simple, functional, and warm. Fairly light. Not for every trip or person, but if you can spare a few ounces they make tent life a little more enjoyable. If you plan to stand around in them much, cut some "insoles" out of 1/4" Evazote and drop them in for a little more insulation. 10/10
Integral Designs Primalid
The Integral Designs Primalid is pretty representative of ID in general: very functional, durable, and only passably stylish even in the 80's. It is my favorite headwear and the warmest 1.6 oz. (45g) that I carry. Soft, stretchy fleece ear band, Primaloft Sport (of the 3 oz. thickness variety), and P685, which is an old Pertex fabric that is rarely if ever used anymore. It has proven tough, and for the weight I can usually justify tossing it in for quick stops, extra warmth for glassing, and most commonly to give my sleep system a boost.
The Good:
-Light and very warm
-Tough fabric
-Comfortable
The Bad:
-On the newest version the original fabric has been replaced by a calendered, stiffer fabric that I don't like as much. I'm sure it works well, it's just not quite as plush for sleeping in. The sizing also changed a little bit from the original.
Bottom Line: One of my favorite items from ID. Light and very warm for the weight.
Old version: 10/10
New version: 9.5/10
The Good:
-Light and very warm
-Tough fabric
-Comfortable
The Bad:
-On the newest version the original fabric has been replaced by a calendered, stiffer fabric that I don't like as much. I'm sure it works well, it's just not quite as plush for sleeping in. The sizing also changed a little bit from the original.
Bottom Line: One of my favorite items from ID. Light and very warm for the weight.
Old version: 10/10
New version: 9.5/10
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Montbell Alpine Light Down Parka
The Montbell Alpine Light Parka is probably my most frequently used piece of insulation. I've used it primarily as a belay jacket for ice climbing and to throw on for glassing sessions. My XL weighs 15.8oz. (448g), which is pretty good for 4.3 oz. of down load. The hood goes over a helmet if you care, and the pockets are sized nicely for gloved hands and a hat. Two big inside pockets are nice for a Nalgene of tea or more commonly for drying wet gloves/socks/hats. The hood adjustments are sufficient. The cuffs are elastic.
The newest iteration has a drawcord on the hem, something I've commonly missed on mine. I've considered sewing one in myself. The outside pocket zippers could be a little smoother, but aren't too bad. The fabric is Montbell's 30d ballistic nylon and is tougher than you'd expect. I caught the sleeve on my crampons pulling them out of the car; thinking it was stuck under a boot I gave a good pull and it didn't give. I would expect this kind of toughness from a burly, heavy jacket, but for a one pound puffy I was pretty impressed.
The Good:
-High warmth:weight ratio
-Durable for the weight
-Good cut for going over layers
-Great pockets
The Bad:
-My only major gripe was the lack or a drawcord at the hem, which they fixed. Worth noting if buying an older version though.
Bottom Line: For a sub 16oz. belay jacket this is one of the absolute best values on the market. Montbell's prices are slowly creeping up, but they are still on the lower end of the price spectrum with very functional gear. I use this piece while sitting, down to about 0* with a 150 weight wool base and mid-layer. 9.5/10
The newest iteration has a drawcord on the hem, something I've commonly missed on mine. I've considered sewing one in myself. The outside pocket zippers could be a little smoother, but aren't too bad. The fabric is Montbell's 30d ballistic nylon and is tougher than you'd expect. I caught the sleeve on my crampons pulling them out of the car; thinking it was stuck under a boot I gave a good pull and it didn't give. I would expect this kind of toughness from a burly, heavy jacket, but for a one pound puffy I was pretty impressed.
The Good:
-High warmth:weight ratio
-Durable for the weight
-Good cut for going over layers
-Great pockets
The Bad:
-My only major gripe was the lack or a drawcord at the hem, which they fixed. Worth noting if buying an older version though.
Bottom Line: For a sub 16oz. belay jacket this is one of the absolute best values on the market. Montbell's prices are slowly creeping up, but they are still on the lower end of the price spectrum with very functional gear. I use this piece while sitting, down to about 0* with a 150 weight wool base and mid-layer. 9.5/10
Golite Shangri-La 5
The Shangri-La is famously the cheap way to come out with a wood heated tipi shelter, relative to Kifaru and Ti Goat. I've used one stoveless, and am simply not a "wood stove in the tent" guy. I'm well aware of the benefits, I just don't care to be bothering with it.
Without a wood stove, floorless tents end up being a little less amazing compared to double wall's in the warmth department. I've also noticed that people don't like to add up the weight of the ground cloths they use when comparing single and double wall shelter specs. Nevertheless, they are still light, roomy, and functional in pretty nasty conditions.
The 5 is very comfy with 3+gear+room to sprawl/cook. Goes up and comes down easily with one guy. There is a reason tipi style shelters are popular with ski tourers: make your own beds, shelves, kitchen, etc. in the snow. Basically a snow fort like you built when you were 10.
Haven't used enough other tipi's to make a good pro/con list, so I'll leave that be. Have used other floorless shelters and the tipi style has some major benefits.
Here are a few links to helpful or informative tipi/stove info:
Several tipi's with added stove jacks
Shangri-La with added stove boot
Ti Goat
Kifaru Shelters
Without a wood stove, floorless tents end up being a little less amazing compared to double wall's in the warmth department. I've also noticed that people don't like to add up the weight of the ground cloths they use when comparing single and double wall shelter specs. Nevertheless, they are still light, roomy, and functional in pretty nasty conditions.
The 5 is very comfy with 3+gear+room to sprawl/cook. Goes up and comes down easily with one guy. There is a reason tipi style shelters are popular with ski tourers: make your own beds, shelves, kitchen, etc. in the snow. Basically a snow fort like you built when you were 10.
Haven't used enough other tipi's to make a good pro/con list, so I'll leave that be. Have used other floorless shelters and the tipi style has some major benefits.
Here are a few links to helpful or informative tipi/stove info:
Several tipi's with added stove jacks
Shangri-La with added stove boot
Ti Goat
Kifaru Shelters
MSR Evo Ascent
I've used snowshoes from most of the major manufacturers. While not my absolute favorite based on performance, this one gets high marks for being pretty indestructible and cheap. MSR Evo Ascent
It began life as the Denali, which was more or less the basic solid plastic design that is now called the Evo. Add a heel riser for climbing straight up hill, a more aggressive crampon, a few other odds and ends, and you end up with the Evo Ascent. I've used them for a couple of spring bear seasons now, and generally find them sufficient. Spring bear creates some of the only conditions that favor snowshoes over skis for efficiency: randomly spaced dry ground and thigh deep post-holing, mile after mile. Leave the shoes on, let them suck up the beating, and save yourself a ton of time and frustration either taking them on and off or slogging on foot.
It's worth noting that even in the spring there are conditions where snowshoes are less efficient than going without. No need to pull your boot and 9x25 shoes both through slushee machine snow.
You can find various previous versions of the Denali/Evo/Whatever for cheap on ebay or craigslist. For a beater spring shoe they are a decent line to choose from.
The Good:
-The deck and crampon can handle abuse
-Risers are nice for the uphill...as long and you're going straight uphill, which almost never happens
-Bindings are easy to use (see below however)
-You can add tails if you eat too much. Seriously though, if 9x25 won't float me in some conditions, a 9x30 won't either. Since that photo was taken I've re-considered the value of more tail.
The Bad:
-Poor side hill articulation. The Atlas 12's have it over everything else I've tried in this department.
-Heavy
-Broke a binding strap on one trip...they don't inspire confidence. As long and you don't break the heel strap it won't be a catastrophic failure though.
Botton Line: They function well enough and the price is usually right. 8/10
It began life as the Denali, which was more or less the basic solid plastic design that is now called the Evo. Add a heel riser for climbing straight up hill, a more aggressive crampon, a few other odds and ends, and you end up with the Evo Ascent. I've used them for a couple of spring bear seasons now, and generally find them sufficient. Spring bear creates some of the only conditions that favor snowshoes over skis for efficiency: randomly spaced dry ground and thigh deep post-holing, mile after mile. Leave the shoes on, let them suck up the beating, and save yourself a ton of time and frustration either taking them on and off or slogging on foot.
It's worth noting that even in the spring there are conditions where snowshoes are less efficient than going without. No need to pull your boot and 9x25 shoes both through slushee machine snow.
You can find various previous versions of the Denali/Evo/Whatever for cheap on ebay or craigslist. For a beater spring shoe they are a decent line to choose from.
The Good:
-The deck and crampon can handle abuse
-Risers are nice for the uphill...as long and you're going straight uphill, which almost never happens
-Bindings are easy to use (see below however)
-You can add tails if you eat too much. Seriously though, if 9x25 won't float me in some conditions, a 9x30 won't either. Since that photo was taken I've re-considered the value of more tail.
The Bad:
-Poor side hill articulation. The Atlas 12's have it over everything else I've tried in this department.
-Heavy
-Broke a binding strap on one trip...they don't inspire confidence. As long and you don't break the heel strap it won't be a catastrophic failure though.
Botton Line: They function well enough and the price is usually right. 8/10
Hunt Climb
There are plenty of climbing gear blogs online and several very good ones. There are a few backpack hunting gear blogs too, but only a handful of good ones. One of the better to date is the BC Hunting Blog. Definitely some knowledge and real world experience there. Not many products reviewed, but they are pretty thorough.
The purpose here is to use my experience in ice and alpine climbing and backpack hunting to illuminate some good gear that suits my needs well. Is this a climbing gear blog? Yes. Is this a hunting gear blog? Yes. Probably 90% of my backpack hunting gear is the same stuff I drag out for alpine climbs in the Absoroka's or Cascades. Additionally, it is just plain difficult to find reviews, pictures and weights for gear that's not mainstream. You'll see me link to High Caliber Gear and Prolite Gear a lot. They are my hometown shops and I like to support them when I can. They are hunter friendly and carry some gear that is hard or impossible to find elsewhere.
The following will help you know where my reviews are coming from, where my biases are, and how you can apply my thoughts to your gear:
-My hunting interests are directed toward mule deer in alpine terrain and black bear. If you think something I review won't work for your elk hunt because I'm not interested in hunting elk, fair enough.
-I've climbed technical ice, alpine, and rock in the Bitterroot, N. Cascade, Bridger, Absoroka, Gallatin, Beartooth, and Wind River ranges.
-I grew up hunting, but I was seriously interested in alpine climbing before backpack hunting, so I have no allegiance to hunting specific gear manufacturers. Now that I've tried a few of them I can't believe the hype that some people buy into. I'm open to new companies and boutique manufacturers--hunting based or not.
-I have worked several field seasons monitoring natural resources; this has allowed me to hike and backpack on and off trail in some interesting places that I never would have seen for +- 50 days each year on top of recreational hunts and climbs.
-You won't find my posts tagged "hardcore", "DIY", or "extreme".
Final Word: For a lot of people who "backpack hunt", the gear obsession is 99% of what they do. "All hat, no cattle" comes to mind. Use your gear and the info you find here to get out and enjoy creation. Don't limit yourself to hunting season. Go running, backpacking, XC skiing, climbing, etc. to broaden your skill set and enjoy the outdoors all year long. I'm not a great hunter or a great climber, but if you love to get out I think you'll appreciate my point of view.
The purpose here is to use my experience in ice and alpine climbing and backpack hunting to illuminate some good gear that suits my needs well. Is this a climbing gear blog? Yes. Is this a hunting gear blog? Yes. Probably 90% of my backpack hunting gear is the same stuff I drag out for alpine climbs in the Absoroka's or Cascades. Additionally, it is just plain difficult to find reviews, pictures and weights for gear that's not mainstream. You'll see me link to High Caliber Gear and Prolite Gear a lot. They are my hometown shops and I like to support them when I can. They are hunter friendly and carry some gear that is hard or impossible to find elsewhere.
The following will help you know where my reviews are coming from, where my biases are, and how you can apply my thoughts to your gear:
-My hunting interests are directed toward mule deer in alpine terrain and black bear. If you think something I review won't work for your elk hunt because I'm not interested in hunting elk, fair enough.
-I've climbed technical ice, alpine, and rock in the Bitterroot, N. Cascade, Bridger, Absoroka, Gallatin, Beartooth, and Wind River ranges.
-I grew up hunting, but I was seriously interested in alpine climbing before backpack hunting, so I have no allegiance to hunting specific gear manufacturers. Now that I've tried a few of them I can't believe the hype that some people buy into. I'm open to new companies and boutique manufacturers--hunting based or not.
-I have worked several field seasons monitoring natural resources; this has allowed me to hike and backpack on and off trail in some interesting places that I never would have seen for +- 50 days each year on top of recreational hunts and climbs.
-You won't find my posts tagged "hardcore", "DIY", or "extreme".
Final Word: For a lot of people who "backpack hunt", the gear obsession is 99% of what they do. "All hat, no cattle" comes to mind. Use your gear and the info you find here to get out and enjoy creation. Don't limit yourself to hunting season. Go running, backpacking, XC skiing, climbing, etc. to broaden your skill set and enjoy the outdoors all year long. I'm not a great hunter or a great climber, but if you love to get out I think you'll appreciate my point of view.
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